Yuima Nakazat presented its newest couture collection "EVOKE'' at Haute Couture Week in Paris. The celebratory collection marks the brand's 10th couture collection shown at Haute Couture Week as a guest member.
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The presentation this time is a combination of three different elements: a physical runway show held at Osanbashi Pier in Yokohama, Japan; a film presentation of the show premiered at the official online platform of Haute Couture Week; and a set of editorial photos shot by the photographer Yasunari Kikuma.
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This collection came to fruition as a result of a close collaboration with very special guests: stylist Robbie Spencer, having worked previously with Nakazato on an editorial, marking a creative reunion after 10 years apart; and composer, pianist and activist Ryuichi Sakamoto, offering his ocean-related works for the show and video.
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Their unique technology has continued to advance since last season. For this collection, Yuima Nakazato conjures the voice as a unique characteristic of individuals, focusing on creating a story centered around a non-visual sensory perception. The Biosmocking patterns are based on the frequency of the whales' voices and are poetic visualization of their unique song. The graphics of whales that are printed on leather use multiple layers of UV inkjet prints in order to give the print a braille-like tactile feeling.
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The use of virgin materials in this collection has been reduced to as low as possible. 30% of the entire collection is up-cycled/repaired material, while the other materials are all natural, leaving low impact on the environment. Tradition is combined with innovation; Brewed Protein™ (synthetic protein fabric developed by Spiber.Inc.) is incorporated into Nishijin-ori, the traditional kimono textile from Kyoto, producing new fabric with a never before seen metallic blue shade.
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Many of the looks from the collection are, like kimono, made only with square patterns provoking the form that covers all genders, body shapes and ages. Figures in Ukiyo-e became the primary source for styling with various obi-belts and layering, giving a strong sense of Japonism to the overall atmosphere.
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The pre-recorded show was held at Osanbashi Pier. The main international passenger pier at the Port of Yokohama, which was designed by Foreign Office Architects (Alejandro Zaera-Polo and Farshid Moussavi), has a grand design reminiscent of the form of a whale.
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Four water related works by Ryuichi Sakamoto (FIREWATER, TOWARDS WATER, WHALE, and AQUA), were mixed by Senjan Jansen and played at the show, evoking the awe humanity feels to our planet Earth and suggesting a new step to the next era.
