With this strange reductive pandemic times, certain things get better. One of them is, the opportunity to make a more personal choice for the fashion shows locations. Liberated from the space obligation one can create a more complex story, linking it to the creative process.
At the beginning of this covid period, Rick OWENS was confessing to journalist LUKE LEITCH: “Italy Is Where I Create, and Paris Is Where I Am Judged”
It is with deep interest we followed the collection presented once more at the Tempio Votivo of Lido, in Venice. The rigid, rather somber architecture, with flamboyant interior illustrates so good this unique and revolutionary designer. The Californian prodigy kept up to the promise and forged with each collection, his singular signature.
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Tyron Dylan Susman, OWENS’ muse, opened the show like a warrior ready to embrace the future. To embrace and not to face, because for this new fall winter Men Collection, Rick OWENS talks about the garden Jesus prayed in the night before crucifixion
Ghetsemane is our moment, in this uncertain present of major changes.
Strenght, romantisme, passion and the signature he indulged us with since his beginnings, are all there for a powerful collection.
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All zipped up armour like pieces with integrated gloves and omni-present skin tight leather bodysuits, for protection. Exaggerated shoulders and disproportioned shapes, hooded biblical robes, furry or leathery high-hilled thigh-highs and other strong symbolic pieces are all metaphors of this deranged times.
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The designer swings between recycled cashmere, plastic waste and reconditioned coats facing them to the tiny organic pentagram underwear.
This future legendary men are strong enough to show both character and fragility, fear and barbarism.
The ongoing, made in Japan, capsule of denim, woven by Yamaashi ORIMONO on vintage Sakamoto shuttle looms, brought to this collection the dragging oversized jeans in different blue or black shades.
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Finally CONVERSE and DRKSHDW brought us a new sneaker. To underline this rage against times can also be illustrated with a common element.
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“…this season Converse agreed to graft my crude version onto their original and mutate their signature toe cap. The tongue is extended and the label and license plates are altered to reflect the DRKSHDW collaboration.”
Do watch the show, listen to its repetitive soundtrack, exclusive extended remix of “Hellrap” by Ghostemane. Its waves call to that suppressed male rage.
