Calvin Luo dived into the works of Helmut Newton to conceptualize his Fall/Winter 2022 Womenswear and Menswear Collection.
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“Le Smoking”, one of the photographer’s most emblematic image, was taken in a dusty Parisian alleyway (rue Aubriot) in pure elegant simplicity that remains the epitome of chic to this day. It is documented that Newton asked Vikebe Knudsen (the model) to incarnate a familiar figure in 19th century French art: the dandy, who “has no profession other than elegance”, according to Beaudelaire. Le Smoking would not only mark a shift in fashion, but in power. In the words of Pierre Bergé “It is a well-known fact that Chanel gave women their freedom; years later Saint Laurent brought them power.”
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Calvin asked himself what the same elegance and power would look like today. With his collection film titled “LE NOIR”, Calvin plumbs into “Le Smoking” almost half a century later and pays homage to Paris (again) whose iconic beauty has remained unchanged by the passing of time.
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With a mainly black, white, and grey collection, CALVIN LUO keeps faith with the emblematic image but introduces timely details that anchor his vision in modernity: Crisp and deconstructed tailoring, asymmetric construction patterns, his now signature significant metalware. And while le smoking (the tux) is not a groundbreaker nowadays, Calvin’s supplemental choices convey Newton’s rule breaking attitude: Gender fluid sport tanks, denim, masculine belts. His styling choices render his vision into the present: butterfly punk jewelry (a nod to the CALVIN LUO SS22 collection), black lipstick, e-cigarettes, and a purposeful choice to pair the entire collection with a new signature high and lop top square toe sneaker.
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Calvin’s love for Paris is no secret - tributes and homages are recurrent in his work - but this collection hits different. This is now the 5th season CALVIN LUO shows digitally. His film “LE NOIR” transports the collection to a fabled Paris; wishful thinking that next season he will be back in person.
