Winnie Fall/Winter 2022 was inspired by Dumile Feni, the South African contemporary visual artist, whose work often depicted the struggle against apartheid in South Africa. While Idris Balogun, creative director of WINNIE, further researched Feni's work, he fell in love with the fact that Feni self exiled himself from his tribe as it is a concept not widely heard of. Removing oneself from a situation that no longer suits you and what that separation does to the mind, especially in a creative sense.
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This concept coincides with the current state of WINNIE, as manufacturing was moved from New York to Vezio, a small town in Italy, for the Fall/Winter 2022 collection. Balogun also temporarily uprooted his life to Vezio while the collection was being developed, essentially self exiling from his community, in order to fully capture the idea of separation and get a full understanding of getting to know oneself without any outside distractions.
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The collection pieces are also inspired by Dumile Feni and the way he would proportion the body within his work. Showcasing extreme features, huge torsos with small lower bodies, which is seen throughout the tailoring in the lookbook. Creating silhouettes where the model is tailored overtop and bellows out at the bottom, visually representing a walking triangle. Unconventional layering is another main concept, styling items where they aren’t usually seen. Placing a blazer under a shirt and pants on top of pants. Grotesque shapes that are not usually associated with humans and how they wear clothing.
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Sticking to the DNA of the brand, fabrication and craftsmanship are continued core values. Working with methods known to WINNIE; hand stitching within the button holes, upcycling materials to create denim jackets and jeans. Using pieces from past collections and repurposing them. The goal of this collection was to be more precise with the vision, cutting down how many looks are showcased to not add to the current environmental and sustainability issues within the industry.
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Highlighted pieces include a raincoat made of repurposed wool with a waterproof layer in between both pieces of the wool. A leather jacket made out of repurposed cow-hide leather rugs. Wool chaps are the brand's version of subtle chaps, with the intent to create a vortex of a shape. If worn with another wool version of pants the layering is more discreet. Continuing the use of Swiss cotton for tailoring shirts, which was a method learned during Balogun’s time at Tom Ford. Working with a local mill in Vezio that herds mohair goats to create mohair blends for the blazers and suits.
Accessories are introduced this season with leather hats and belt bags. The idea of the hats were inspired from huge driver hats yet recreated in a high fashion aura. Made with soft beautiful leather all made in Italy, to add to the feel of the WINNIE lifestyle and character. Belts add to the unconventional layering of the brand. Two styles of the belt - a pouch and two pockets, that resemble a shortened version of the chaps.
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This season the brand was presented the opportunity to showcase on the official Men’s Paris Fashion Week schedule, in both physical and digital platforms. The Fall/Winter 2022 film relates to the idea of exile and separation and how it is a feeling that is mass related. The story of a man who is haunted by the complications of his own mind. The utilization of the mind and consciousness as it relates to each individual gives us a feeling that what is depicted is not a far fetched idea but can happen to us all.
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As Balogun has a deep appreciation and love for art, he chose a presentation format rather than a traditional runway show. Utilizing a gallery space and partnering with FFF Studio run by his brother, they created an installation to showcase the clothing separate from the human being. Building fixtures such as mannequins entirely from cardboard which are completely packable and recyclable for the viewers to fully focus on the clothing. Balogun has young memories of his initial interest in fashion and how he was enamored with the clothing itself as an entity and not who or how it was being worn on a person. As the brand develops he wishes to continuously think of new ways to showcase clothing and partnering with creatives, who can speak to experiences he has not had.
© Winnie
Ph: Rasaan Wyzard
