The Ungaro men's collection for Winter 2022-2023 finds its inspiration in the atmosphere of the artistic journey of a city-dweller, modern and art lover who explores the artistic places of Paris - city of light, before drawing its collection.
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To find his inspiration, the Artistic Director for the Ungaro collection, Philippe Paubert, traveled, the iconic museums of the city in their left bank spirit:
The Museum of Modern Art provided him with inspiration for the neutral tones of the collection (Variation of gray, natural beige, graphite, off-white) which applied to wools give a modern aspect to “formalwear” clothing, comfortable and textured knits, logos and abstract patterns. The search for emotion suggested by the cocooning materials, the mixtures of luxurious materials, the fluid and over-sized silhouettes.
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At the Bourdelle Museum, former home-workshop of sculptor Antoine Bourdelle (1861-1929), the designer chose warmer tones (chocolate, eggplants, ocher, purple, dark blue) for a wardrobe in velvets, flannels and textured materials. The prints for the linings and shirts are rich, deep and graphic, comfort takes over the city wardrobe.
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His visit to the Musée du Quai Branly brings him back to a conceptual modernity, to the vegetal and the ethnic that he will use for the jacquards in a palette of khakis and deep indigos with touches of yellow. It will infuse the ethnic with the modernity of the military look for the more casual part of the collection.
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The collection is built around this artistic inspiration, draws its colors from the works of the artists on display, borrows the attitudes of iconic artists for free fashion with rebellious elegance.
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The color codes and patterns that make up the DNA of the Ungaro house, come together in this universe to renew a masculine wardrobe combining: "cocooning" spirit reworked with sophisticated cuts, camouflage treated in the style of a Rothko, inspirations “Work jacket” in felted materials, reinterpreted “denim” look, oversized coats on fluid pants with sporty looks, deconstructed and fluid jackets, flannel pants, ultra-light “big gauge” knits.
The emphasis is on textures and surface appearances: curly, felted, graphically blurred patterns, jerseys, boiled wools, geometric designs.
Ph: Ralph Wenig
